Art
in motion
You'll encounter colourful sights and characters on the ByWard Market
art gallery walking tour
By Peter Simpson, The Ottawa CitizenAugust 29, 2009 11:37 AM

Janice
Edgar leads tourists nto Gallery 240, one of the stops on the ByWard
Market art gallery tour.
Photograph by: Peter Simpson, The Ottawa Citizen
You may have noticed many things if you had been walking around the
ByWard Market last Saturday morning.
You may have noticed a woman on Dalhousie Street who was curiously well-dressed
for 11 a.m., and a bit shaky on her nightclubs heels as she did "the
walk of shame" home after a long night of better-not-to-know.
You may have noticed the grey-haired chap on Clarence Street with the
white shorts, blue-and-white striped sailor shirt, tiny cap and a jaunty
step who looked like an extra from Lawrence Welk's production of HMS
Pinafore.
You may also have noticed the art galleries -- but maybe not. That's
why Phil Émond wants you to take the ByWard Market art gallery
walking tour, so you'll realize the Market is more than wobbly women
and men who order their clothes from the Gilbert & Sullivan catalogue.
"There are something like 15 or 17 art galleries in the Market,"
says Émond, before the tour starts at 11 a.m. and weaves through
the streets of Lowertown for four hours. Émond runs the Gordon
Harrison Gallery on Murray Street and even he was surprised to learn
how much art there is in the neighbourhood. "Where are these galleries?"
he wondered aloud. "And then all of a sudden you walk around and
say, 'Hey, there's a neat little place here.'" So Émond
signed up a dozen or so galleries and started the tour last summer.
Now, with a few tweaks, such as adding a 30-minute coffee break in the
middle, it's officially a part of Saturdays in the Market.
"Good morning to people from Korea, good morning to Germany, and
good morning to Canada," Émond says to the tour group, as
two Korean women, one German couple, two Canadian women and one British
women cleverly disguised as a Canadian gather at the Harrison gallery.
Émond explains the tour, and talks about the work of Harrison,
who gave up his job at city hall a few years ago to work full time on
his boldly coloured landscapes. Soon we are out the door, with 10 galleries
to visit in three hours.
It used to be 12 galleries but two, Detour and Art Mode, have closed.
This makes the tour less hurried, which is a relief for even 10 galleries
in three hours is a long haul, especially on a hot day. I'm already
hoping somebody has painted a portrait of a refreshing beverage, or
maybe sculpted an air conditioner from found objects.
"We didn't know what to expect when we first started, and we're
pleasantly surprised how it's taken off," says Janice Edgar, a
federal public servant, writer of children's books and our tour guide.
She says eight to 10 people is ideal for the tour, as more can be cumbersome.
First stop is Gallery 240, on Guigues Street, just past an old gent
who's been banished to the sidewalk with his morning cigar and who gives
me a wise-guy nod. He recognizes that I've taken up position at the
back of our group to guard against those who would deprive us of art,
such as Philistines, the Taliban, a few members of Ottawa city council
and most of Stephen Harper's caucus.
The
art in Gallery 240 is dark and disturbing. Deb Mukerji's portraits are
by times comic or grotesque. They bring to mind Goya's macabre masterpiece
Saturn Eating his Son, especially a large piece titled This One I Offer
to My God, which shows one man dragging the bloodied corpse of another.
Cheerio! We head back to Murray Street, past the French Baker (mmm,
the art of the chocolate croissant), and the defunct Detour Gallery
with a "nail salon coming soon" sign in the window (at least
something is getting painted), and reach our next stop, Calligrammes.
The gallery is dominated by Pierre Raphaël Pelletier's huge painting
Le Chantier du Petit Jour, a $15,000 explosion of yellow and white and
specks of purple, like you've stuck your face into a flock of canaries
that's attacking a finch. It's 79 inches across the top, not the sort
of thing you buy on a walking tour.
"My guess is they probably do buy eventually,"
Edgar says. "When people are interested in art, when it speaks
to them, they'll put the money out." She moves us toward St. Patrick
Street, and the Galerie D'art Jean-Claude Bergeron. It's in a fine old
heritage home, and inside the highlight is a small print ($6,000) by
Louise Bourgeois, best known round these parts as the mother of Maman,
the giant spider outside the National Gallery.
Next is the city-owned Karsh-Masson Gallery,
which is almost reverentially silent, in contrast to the Internet-media
cacophony represented in Amy Schissel's giant abstract paintings, which
crackle with almost impenetrable motion and detail. The space is peaceful,
a sanctuary from the bustle outside, like sitting in the Rideau Chapel
at the National Gallery up the street.
Equally abstract, but far more spacious, is the
work of Mario Varguez at Galerie Jason Duval on Sussex Drive. Varguez's
canvases are studies of bronze and orange and yellow, plumbed from the
dark depths of the artist's mind.
There's an entirely different style just up the
street at the Terence Robert Gallery, where Chelsea, Que., artist John
Ovcacik's scenes of sheds and other utility buildings have a depth that
is often lacking in Canadian hyperrealism these days. It has soul, something
that is not real. A couple not on the tour seem to be trying to decide
which of two Ovcacik paintings -- at about $5,000 each -- to buy. A
few days later, when I check Ovcacik's website, I see that both paintings
are now labelled "sold." It's almost 2 p.m. and there are
still three more stops -- Santé Restaurant (and gallery), the
Ottawa School of Art and the Ottawa Art Gallery -- but another deadline
is calling me away. Edgar cheerfully leads the remaining tourists up
Sussex, as I round the corner toward a cab. The last piece of art I
see on my tour is a poster taped to a utility pole, and it's the Mona
Lisa with a rather large set of boobs drawn on.
Oh, the things you see in the ByWard Market.
- - -
What: ByWard Market art gallery walking tour
When: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Saturdays
Where: Starts at Gordon Harrison Gallery, 100
Murray St.